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The main exceptions are getting at least one copy of strength gain with Limit Break, and getting Body Slam or Rampage with Barricade. If so, you no longer need any more offensive cards in your deck. Hopefully, you managed to acquire one of the following win conditions by now (probably from the boss): Be careful when picking these, however, as they are likely to be dead cards in your deck until at least the boss of Act 1. Afterwards, you will build your deck around the one you choose.
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These are your win conditions:Īfter you feel comfortable with the rest of your deck, you should take the first one of these that you see, but no more. Pick mostly from this list, in order of priority (a maximum of one copy should be picked for each card with a *):īattle Trance*, Shrug it Off, True Grit, Disarm*, Shockwave*, Inflame*, Offering, Reaper, Impervious, Double Tap*, Flame Barrier, Evolve*, Ghostly Armor, Feedįinally, there are a few rare cards that you should always keep an eye out for. You generally want 2-3 of the above cards, which will comprise a large portion of your damage until the end of the game.ĭefensive and utility cards are less desirable than offensive cards until you have enough offense, but again, there are a few that you should be looking for. If you are past Floor 4 and haven't seen any of the cards above, try to at least get one of the cards below before fighting any elites:Īrmaments, Clash, Clothesline, Flex, Bludgeon, Hemokinesis, Thunderclap, Pummel, Infernal Blade, Sever Soul, Carnage, Wild Strikeįor this strategy, I don't recommend ever any offensive cards on Act 1 that are not on these lists (it is strong to, for example, pick Searing Blow on the first floor and pursue a Searing Blow strategy, but that is not covered by this guide). Whirlwind, Pommel Strike, Cleave, Fiend Fire, Inflame, Body Slam, Rampage, Heavy Blade, Headbutt, Iron Wave, Uppercut, Spot Weakness, and Twin Strike. The main offensive cards you want to find at this point are, in order of priority: Your top priority is to improve your offensive capabilities. Generally, plan to finish the first Act with 3-6 cards added to your deck. For a simpler (but less detailed) spreadsheet view, look here. The logic for picking cards is somewhat complicated.
SLAY THE SPIRE IRONCLAD GUIDE HOW TO
I will talk more about these later when I get into how to actually draft your cards. However, I find that making these types of decks with Ironclad relies a bit too much on finding certain key cards.Īnother big reason why defensive decks work well is the presence of one-card win conditions that will eventually lead to a win despite playing mostly blocks every turn. The best way to mitigate this risk is to create small, focused decks.
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If your deck relies on killing the enemy as quickly as possible, then if you ever enter a battle and cannot win in one or two turns, you face taking large amounts of damage from the enemy attacks. If your deck is filled with defensive cards, you have a high chance of being able to defend against enough damage every turn. Why should we build the Ironclad in a defensive manner? In short, I find it more consistent.Īs long as you defend against all of the incoming damage every turn, you only need a minimum amount of offense to win the fight. Also, their main stat is Strength, while the Silent is focused more on Dexterity. A larger portion are offensive-oriented, rather than defensive.